Eminence of Microbial Products in Cosmetic Industry

doi:10.1007/s13659-019-0215-0

摘要/Abstract

摘要： Cosmetology is the developing branch of science, having direct impact on the society. The cosmetic sector is interested in finding novel biological alternatives which can enhance the product attributes as well as it can substitute chemical compounds. Many of the compounds are having biological origin and are acquire from bacteria, fungi, and algae. A range of biological compounds, like bio-surfactant, vitamins, antioxidants, pigments, enzymes, peptides have promising features and beneficial properties. Moreover, these products can be produced commercially with ease. The review will encompass the importance and use of microbial compounds for new cosmetic formulations as well as products associated with it.

关键词: Cosmetics, Microbiology, Biosurfactants, Formulations, Cyclodextrin, Emulsions

Abstract: Cosmetology is the developing branch of science, having direct impact on the society. The cosmetic sector is interested in finding novel biological alternatives which can enhance the product attributes as well as it can substitute chemical compounds. Many of the compounds are having biological origin and are acquire from bacteria, fungi, and algae. A range of biological compounds, like bio-surfactant, vitamins, antioxidants, pigments, enzymes, peptides have promising features and beneficial properties. Moreover, these products can be produced commercially with ease. The review will encompass the importance and use of microbial compounds for new cosmetic formulations as well as products associated with it.

Key words: Cosmetics, Microbiology, Biosurfactants, Formulations, Cyclodextrin, Emulsions

Prabhuddha L. Gupta, Mahendrapalsingh Rajput, Tejas Oza, Ujwalkumar Trivedi, Gaurav Sanghvi. Eminence of Microbial Products in Cosmetic Industry[J]. 应用天然产物, 2019, 9(4): 267-278.

Prabhuddha L. Gupta, Mahendrapalsingh Rajput, Tejas Oza, Ujwalkumar Trivedi, Gaurav Sanghvi. Eminence of Microbial Products in Cosmetic Industry[J]. Natural Products and Bioprospecting, 2019, 9(4): 267-278.

参考文献

1. G. Schneider, S. Gohla, J. Schreiber, W. Kaden, U. Schönrock, H. Schmidt-Lewerkühne, A. Kuschel, X. Petsitis, W. Pape, H. Ippen, W. Diembeck, Ullmanns Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistr (American Cancer Society, New York, 2001)
2. Z.D. Draelos, Dermatol. Ther. 25, 223 (2012)
3. US Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, Amend. Dec. 31, 2004 (2004)
4. World Cosmetics Market-Opportunities and Forecasts, 2014-2022, Research and Markets (2016), https://www.researchandmarkets.com/reports/3275915/world-cosmetics-market-opportunities-and. Accessed 2 Feb, 2019
5. Indian Cosmetic Market Outlook 2018 (2014), https://www.rncos.com/Market-Analysis-Reports/Indian-Cosmetic-Market-Outlook-2018-IM705.htm. Accessed 2 Feb, 2019
6. K. Patwardhan, J. Pathak, R. Acharya, J. Ayurveda Integr. Med. 8, 279 (2017)
7. A.C. de Groot, I.R. White, Textook of Contact Dermat, in Cosmetics and Skin Care Products, ed. by R.J.G. Rycroft, T. Menné, P.J. Frosch, J.P. Lepoittevin (Springer, Berlin, 2001), pp. 661-685
8. A. Martins, H. Vieira, H. Gaspar, S. Santos, Mar. Drugs 12, 1066 (2014)
9. I.A. Khan, E.A. Abourashed, Leung's encyclopedia of common natural ingredients:used in food, drugs and cosmetics (Wiley, New York, 2011)
10. A. Balkrishna, V. Agarwal, G. Kumar, A.K. Gupta, in Microbial Bioprospecting for Sustainable Development, ed. by J. Singh, D. Sharma, G. Kumar, N.R. Sharma (Springer, Singapore, 2018), pp. 189-202
11. A. Oren, J. Ind. Microbiol. Biotechnol. 28, 56 (2002)
12. A. Kijjoa, P. Sawangwong, Mar. Drugs 2, 73 (2004)
13. A. Oren, J. Ind. Microbiol. Biotechnol. 28, 56 (2002)
14. D.E. Andersen, R.J. Williams, Pharmaceuticals from the sea, in Chemistry in the Marine Environment, 2nd edn., ed. by R.M. Hester, R.E. Harrison (The Royal Society of Chemistry, Cambridge, 2000), pp. 55-79
15. J.S. Waites, M.J. Morgan, N.L. Higton, G. Rockey, Industrial Microbiology:An Introduction (Blackwell Science, Oxford, 2001)
16. T. Satyanarayana, B.N. Johri, A. Prakash, Microorganisms in Environmental Management:Microbes and Environment (Springer, Dordrecht, 2012)
17. E.G. Brunt, J.G. Burgess, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 40, 1 (2018)
18. P. Orús, S. Leranoz, Int. Microbiol. Off. J. Span. Soc. Microbiol. 8, 77 (2005)
19. E.M.M. Del Valle, Process Biochem. 39, 1033 (2004)
20. H.J. Buschmann, E. Schollmeyer, J. Cosmet. Sci. 53, 185 (2002)
21. T. Kato, K. Horikoshi, J. Jpn. Soc. Starch Sci. 33, 137 (1986)
22. M.H. Kim, C.B. Sohn, T.K. Oh, FEMS Microbiol. Lett. 164, 411 (1998)
23. S. Mori, S. Hirose, T. Oya, S. Kitahata, Biosci. Biotechnol. Biochem. 58, 1968 (1994)
24. K.N. Rajput, K.C. Patel, U.B. Trivedi, 3 Biotech 6, 168 (2016)
25. R.F. Martins, R. Hatti-Kaul, Enzyme Microb. Technol. 30, 116 (2002)
26. M. Nitschke, S.G. Costa, Trends Food Sci. Technol. 18, 252 (2007)
27. Y. Ueno, N. Hirashima, Y. Inoh, T. Furuno, M. Nakanishi, Biol. Pharm. Bull. 30, 169 (2007)
28. P. Villeneuve, Biotechnol. Adv. 25, 515 (2007)
29. J.K. Lu, H.M. Wang, X.R. XU, U.S. 20160030322A1 (2016)
30. P. Singh, Y. Patil, V. Rale, J. Appl. Microbiol. 126, 2 (2019)
31. C. Carrillo, J.A. Teruel, F.J. Aranda, A. Ortiz, Biochim. Biophys. Acta 1611, 91 (2003)
32. H. Yildiz, N. Karatas, Process Biochem. 72, 41 (2018)
33. I. Kato, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 29, 68 (2007)
34. B.H. Rehm, S. Valla, Appl. Microbiol. Biotechnol. 48, 281 (1997)
35. Z. Wang, J. Wu, L. Zhu, X. Zhan, Carbohydr. Polym. 157, 521 (2017)
36. D. Bilanovic, J. Starosvetsky, R.H. Armon, Carbohydr. Polym. 148, 243 (2016)
37. A. Kumar, K.M. Rao, S.S. Han, Carbohydr. Polym. 180, 128 (2018)
38. L.M. Lods, C. Dres, C. Johnson, D.B. Scholz, G.J. Brooks, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 22, 85 (2000)
39. A. Bafana, S. Dutt, S. Kumar, P.S. Ahuja, Crit. Rev. Biotechnol. 31, 65 (2011)
40. J.G. LeBlanc, S. del Carmen, A. Miyoshi, V. Azevedo, F. Sesma, P. Langella, L.G. Bermúdez-Humarán, L. Watterlot, G. Perdigon, A.D.M. de LeBlanc, J. Biotechnol. 151, 287 (2011)
41. D. Bernard and B. Mehul, U.S. Patent 7521422B2 21, April 2009
42. X. Lin, C.G. Lee, E.S. Casale, J.C.H. Shih, Appl. Environ. Microbiol. 58, 3271 (1992)
43. R. Gupta, R. Sharma, Q.K. Beg, Crit. Rev. Biotechnol. 33, 216 (2013)
44. S.C.B. Gopinath, P. Anbu, T. Lakshmipriya, T.-H. Tang, Y. Chen, U. Hashim, A.R. Ruslinda, M.K.M. Arshad, BioMed Res. Int. 1, 1 (2015). https://doi.org/10.1155/2015/140726
45. Y.A.M.H. Gherbawy, T.A. Maghraby, H.M. El-Sharony, M.A. Hussein, Mycobiology 34, 180 (2006)
46. G. Secchi, Clin. Dermatol. 26, 321 (2008)
47. R. Gupta, Q.K. Beg, P. Lorenz, Appl. Microbiol. Biotechnol. 59, 15 (2002)
48. K. Watanabe, Appl. Microbiol. Biotechnol. 63, 520 (2004)
49. L.R. Robinson, N.C. Fitzgerald, D.G. Doughty, N.C. Dawes, C.A. Berge, D.L. Bissett, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 27, 155 (2005)
50. J.H. Sze, J.C. Brownlie, C.A. Love, Biotech 6, 67 (2016)
51. A. K. Leshchiner, N. E. Larsen, E. G. Parent, U.S. Patent 9907741B2, 6 March 2018
52. B. Widner, R. Behr, S.V. Dollen, M. Tang, T. Heu, A. Sloma, D. Sternberg, P.L. DeAngelis, P.H. Weigel, S. Brown, Appl Environ. Microbiol. 71, 3747 (2005)
53. H. Ikeda, S. Yamamoto, J. Matsumoto, M. Sota, EP3144392A1, 22 March 2017
54. A. Yokoyama, K. Adachi, Y. Shizuri, J. Nat. Prod. 58, 1929 (1995)
55. T. Aki, K. Hachida, M. Yoshinaga, Y. Katai, T. Yamasaki, S. Kawamoto, T. Kakizono, T. Maoka, S. Shigeta, O. Suzuki, K. Ono, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 80, 789 (2003)
56. R.J. Stoklosa, D.B. Johnston, N.P. Nghiem, A.C.S. Sustain, Chem. Eng. 6, 3124 (2018)
57. J.L. Barredo (ed.), Microbial Carotenoids from Bacteria and Microalgae:Methods and Protocols (Humana Press, New York, 2012)
58. S. Hertzberg, G. Borch, S. Liaaen-Jensen, Arch. Microbiol. 110, 95 (1976)
59. N. Chattopadhyay, T. Ghosh, S. Sinha, K. Chattopadhyay, P. Karmakar, B. Ray, Food Chem. 118, 823 (2010)
60. G. Soberón-Chávez, F. Lépine, E. Déziel, Appl. Microbiol. Biotechnol. 68, 718 (2005)
61. G. Soberón-Chávez, R. M. Maier, in Biosurfactants From Genes to Applications ed. by G. Soberón-Chávez (Springer, Berlin, 2011), pp. 1-11
62. J.D. Desai, I.M. Banat, Microbiol. Mol. Biol. Rev. 61, 47 (1997)
63. M. Kanlayavattanakul, N. Lourith, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 32, 1 (2010)
64. Q. Wu, Y. Zhi, Y. Xu, Metab. Eng. 52, 87 (2019)
65. V.K. Morya, C. Ahn, S. Jeon, K. Kim, Mini-Rev. Med. Chem. 13, 1761-1768 (2013)
66. A.S. Duarte, A. Correia, A.C. Esteves, Crit. Rev. Microbiol. 42, 106 (2016)
67. A. Brandelli, Food Bioprocess Technol. 1, 105 (2008)
68. G. Kalopissis, B. Jacquet, G. Lang, U.S. 4129644A, 12 Dec 1978
69. T. Miko Enomoto, T. Johnson, N. Peterson, L. Homer, D. Walts, N. Johnson, Am. J. Surg. 189, 627 (2005)
70. M. Blackwell, Am. J. Bot. 98, 426 (2011)
71. M. Kumari, S.A. Survase, R.S. Singhal, Bioresour. Technol. 99, 1036 (2008)
72. K.D. Hyde, A.H. Bahkali, M.A. Moslem, Fungal Divers. 43, 1 (2010)
73. E.C. Wilkerson, D.J. Goldberg, J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 17, 606 (2018)
74. Z.Y. Zhang, B. Jin, J.M. Kelly, Biochem. Eng. J. 35, 251 (2007)
75. J.-M. Gao, A.-L. Zhang, H. Chen, J.-K. Liu, Chem. Phys. Lipids 131, 205 (2004)
76. R. Prasad, M.A. Ghannoum, Lipids of Pathogenic Fungi (1996) (CRC Press, Boca Raton, 2017)
77. S. Murakami, T. Shimamoto, H. Nagano, M. Tsuruno, H. Okuhara, H. Hatanaka, H. Tojo, Y. Kodama, K. Funato, Sci. Rep. 5, 16319 (2015)
78. S. Gautier, E. Xhauflaire-Uhoda, P. Gonry, G.E. Piérard, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 30, 459 (2008)
79. I. Aranaz, N. Acosta, C. Civera, B. Elorza, J. Mingo, C. Castro, M. de los Llanos Gandía, A. Heras Caballero, Polymers 10, 213 (2018)
80. B.N. Matos, L.M.A. Melo, M.N. Pereira, T.A. Reis, M. CunhaFilho, T. Gratieri, G.M. Gelfuso, B.N. Matos, L.M.A. Melo, M.N. Pereira, T.A. Reis, M. Cunha-Filho, T. Gratieri, G.M. Gelfuso, Quím. Nova 40, 154 (2017)
81. N.J. Dubost, R.B. Beelman, D.J. Royse, Int. J. Med. Mushrooms 9, 163-176 (2007)
82. K. Bazela, A. Solyga-Zurek, R. Debowska, K. Rogiewicz, E. Bartnik, I. Eris, Cosmetics 1, 51 (2014)
83. S.H. Fang, Y.K. Rao, Y.-M. Tzeng, J. Ethnopharmacol. 116, 333 (2008)
84. J. Ventura, R. Belmares, A. Aguilera-Carbo, G. GutiérrezSanchez, R. Rodríguez-Herrera, C.N. Aguilar, Food Technol. Biotechnol. 46, 213 (2008)
85. M.D. Guiry, J. Phycol. 48, 1057 (2012)
86. T. Wang, X. Tian, T. Liu, Z. Wang, W. Guan, M. Guo, J. Chu, Y. Zhuang, Process Biochem. 60, 74 (2017)
87. S.K. Kim, Marine Cosmeceuticals:Trends and Prospects (CRC Press, Boca Raton, 2016)
88. T. Shibata, K. Ishimaru, S. Kawaguchi, H. Yoshikawa, Y. Hama, J. Appl. Phycol. 20, 705 (2007)
89. I. Wijesekara, N.Y. Yoon, S.-K. Kim, BioFactors Oxf. Engl. 36, 408 (2010)
90. H.M.D. Wang, C.C. Chen, P. Huynh, J.S. Chang, Bioresour. Technol. 184, 355 (2015)
91. K. Tominaga, N. Hongo, M. Karato, E. Yamashita, Acta Biochim. Pol. 59, 43 (2012)
92. R. Ginger, A. Mayes, J. Rogers, P. Yates, U.S. Patent 20030039672A1, 27 Feb 2003
93. C. Couteau, L. Coiffard, Seaweed Application in Cosmetics, in Seaweed in Health and Disease Prevention, ed. by J. Fleurence, I. Levine (Academic Press, San Diego, 2016), pp. 423-441
94. C.C. Yang, C.F. Hung, B.H. Chen, Int. J. Nanomed. 12, 6559 (2017)
95. T. Fujimura, K. Tsukahara, S. Moriwaki, T. Kitahara, T. Sano, Y. Takema, J. Cosmet. Sci. 53, 1 (2002)
96. A. Hartmann, A. Murauer, M. Ganzera, J. Pharm. Biomed. Anal. 138, 153 (2017)
97. R.P. Rastogi, D. Madamwar, A. Incharoensakdi, J. Appl. Microbiol. 119, 753 (2015)
98. N. Sanz-Pintos, J. Pérez-Jiménez, A.H. Buschmann, J.R. VergaraSalinas, J.R. Pérez-Correa, F. Saura-Calixto, J. Food Sci. 82, 289 (2017)
99. N.V. Thomas, S.-K. Kim, Environ. Toxicol. Pharmacol. 32, 325 (2011)
100. V. Henríquez, C. Escobar, J. Galarza, J. Gimpel, Subcell. Biochem. 79, 219 (2016)
101. K. Wertz, P.B. Hunziker, N. Seifert, G. Riss, M. Neeb, G. Steiner, W. Hunziker, R. Goralczyk, J. Invest. Dermatol. 124, 428 (2005)
102. B.F. Cordero, I. Obraztsova, I. Couso, R. Leon, M.A. Vargas, H. Rodriguez, Mar. Drugs 9, 1607 (2011)
103. E.S. Jin, A. Melis, Biotechnol. Bioprocess. Eng. 8, 331 (2003)
104. E.P. Balskus, R.J. Case, C.T. Walsh, FEMS Microbiol. Ecol. 77, 322 (2011)
105. R.P. Rastogi, A. Incharoensakdi, FEMS Microbiol. Ecol. 87, 244 (2014)
106. Y. Kamei, M. Sueyoshi, K. Hayashi, R. Terada, H. Nozaki, J. Antibiot. (Tokyo) 62, 259 (2009)
107. S. Gunes, S. Tamburaci, M.C. Dalay, I. Deliloglu Gurhan, Pharm. Biol. 55, 1824 (2017)
108. G. Bedoux, K. Hardouin, A. S. Burlot, N. Bourgougnon, in Advances Botanical. Research, edited by N. Bourgougnon (Academic Press, 2014), pp. 345-378
109. N.Y. Yoon, T.K. Eom, M.M. Kim, S.K. Kim, J. Agric. Food Chem. 57, 4124 (2009)
110. C.T. Shen, P.Y. Chen, J.J. Wu, T.M. Lee, S.L. Hsu, C.M.J. Chang, C.C. Young, C.J. Shieh, J. Supercrit. Fluids 55, 955 (2011)
111. J.H. Fitton, G. Dell'Acqua, V.A. Gardiner, S.S. Karpiniec, D.N. Stringer, E. Davis, Cosmetics 2, 66 (2015)
112. M.B. Ariede, T.M. Candido, A.L.M. Jacome, M.V.R. Velasco, J.C.M. de Carvalho, A.R. Baby, Algal Res. 25, 483 (2017)
113. E. Bari, C.R. Arciola, B. Vigani, B. Crivelli, P. Moro, G. Marrubini, M. Sorrenti, L. Catenacci, G. Bruni, T. Chlapanidas, E. Lucarelli, S. Perteghella, M.L. Torre, Materials (Basel) 10, 983 (2017)
114. S.-S. Bak, Y.K. Sung, S.-K. Kim, Naunyn. Schmiedebergs. Arch. Pharmacol. 387, 789 (2014)

[1]	Ji-Kai Liu. Natural products in cosmetics[J]. 应用天然产物, 2022, 12(6): 40-40.
[2]	Sumel Ashique, Navjot Kaur Sandhu, Sk. Niyamul Haque, Kartick Koley. A Systemic Review on Topical Marketed Formulations, Natural Products, and Oral Supplements to Prevent Androgenic Alopecia: A Review[J]. 应用天然产物, 2020, 10(6): 345-365.
[3]	Ankit Kumar, Sonali Aswal, Ashutosh Chauhan, Ruchi Badoni Semwal, Abhimanyu Kumar, Deepak Kumar Semwal. Ethnomedicinal Investigation of Medicinal Plants of Chakrata Region (Uttarakhand) Used in the Traditional Medicine for Diabetes by Jaunsari Tribe[J]. 应用天然产物, 2019, 9(3): 175-200.